MANGAN TANA... Food Talks with Inang (1 of 2)

This is part 1 of 2 stories I would like to share to all in honor of my dearest Inang as she celebrates her Birthday. May it inspire you and may you learn something special yet simple on how food played an important role in our family's history... This is for you INANG. 

Food is always part of family conversations whenever we get a chance to reunite with relatives in one table after a bountiful meal. Kasama sa paguusapan ang mga lumang pamamaraan ng pagluto plus the current trends in the kitchen. The most memorable times are spent with our dear Lola… the Family Matriarch, 

… Our beloved Inang  

She died a celebrated and happy woman. She lived the years with pride in her heart. Imagine, napagtapos nya lahat ng mga anak nya without any burden of paying dues or debts? She was a strong woman during her time and she is admired by many because of her resilience and candor. Eto ang mga namana ng kanyang mga anak at apo.

Her memory is top notch and until her last days would remember all our birth dates – this includes her children, grandchildren and great grandchildren. She would even memorize the towns and cities in Washington State where she lived for quite a while. She remembers so many things and these she shares with us on the table during meals or during a simple merienda cena.

She narrates that every morning my Mom would assist her in preparing fish for daing to be sold in the nearby market. This is an assortment of fishes from tilapia, galunggong, bangus, all sliced into a butterfly fillet and salted naturally. One recipe would even include sugar - this came from our Lolo. Everyday Inang would sell this and would keep her income to help with family expense. Take note, lahat tapos sa college all because of this humble manner of selling fish. Maybe nga the miracle of the multiplication applied here. God is truly good to our dear Lola. She was never left alone and never left without resources. 

As simple as she is, lagi nya kaming tinuturuang magtipid sa lahat ng bagay. The word pag-iimpok is common. She made sure we know this word kasi eto ang gawain nya nuon pa kaya sya umasenso. Part of her story is her famous hamon. It looks fancy but in all its grandeur and elegance, the words we are talking about are leftover salted pork skin. Yes, leftovers. These are trimmings of pork fat from her sahog whenever she cooks. She would have this small tapayan filled with salt and under the jar are slices of pork skin. It stayed there for months and it never went putrid due to the salt content… one way of our Inang preserving meat.

During the holiday season or in fiesta celebrations, this salted pork skin is always a hero in a dish Inang is known for… her Nilagang Tagalog. This comprises of Pork, Chicken, and Beef. It also has sweet Saba Banana and Garbanzos. The star of this and what would define it to be Inang’s Nilaga is the addition of the salted skin. It makes the broth opaque and very aromatic. Something na lagi naming hinahanap sa Tarlac. This is even elevated to a certain level of beyond gastronomic proportions if the dish is cooked using firewood and would yield the meat falling off the bone. Or the prok and beef that even your pinky finger can smoother it into pieces due to its melting tenderness. This is Inang’s cooking at its finest…

One time I was about to cook lunch and she was at home in our small abode in Makati when she approached me and said, “Hindi ganyan yan. Ganito ang tama…”

And from here a classic dish I’ve mastered she once again elevated to a degree of perfection.

Watch out for more Food Talks with Inang.

The CARDINAL's CHICKEN

One time as I was accompanying a good Liturgist friend of mine in one of his seminars in General Santos City. We came to talk about the Liturgy of the Eucharist. This is the part of the mass where we offer bread and wine - who eventually will become Christ's Body and Blood. The conversation goes on till we talked about what are the right items to offer.

We came across the wine that is being used in mass. In the Philippines, this is commonly known as MOMPO - A Brand that most of our churches use as wine for the Celebration of the Mass. 

This wine is made from grapes and is sweet and pleasant. Humble because it is not premium wine but not cheap since it has really good quality and can make you tipsy. Another is Cardinal Wine, which is less sweeter and full bodied. This discussion triggered my taste buds for I have been exposed to the taste of these wines sine I was an Altar Boy myself. 

With this, I came to remember an Italian Recipe called POLLO CARDINALE. It is humble but rich due to its luscious and aromatic flavor. Having thought of it, and while me and my friend are in the discussion of The Liturgy, why not incorporate Mass Wine to the recipe for me to properly call it the Cardinal's Chicken. 

Allow me to offer my version of this classic dish as I celebrate, with the Catholic Church, the elevation of 19 Bishops to the COLLEGE OF CARDINALS.

Here is my recipe... 

INGREDIENTS:

2 Sprigs Rosemary, chopped
4T Fresh Lemon Juice
1T Lemon Rind
2 cloves Garlic, minced
2T Olive Oil
1T Kosher Salt
2t Ground Pepper
1kg Chicken Thigh Fillet
1C Bacon, sliced
2T Olive Oil
1C Button Mushrooms, sliced
1t Ground Oregano
1C Mass Wine
1T Balsamic Vinegar
1C Mozzarella Cheese, grated
½ C Parmesan Cheese, grated
1T Flat Leaf Parsley, chopped

PROCEDURES:

1. Preheat oven to 350 degrees F. 
2. Using a mortar and pestle, grind rosemary, lemon juice and rind, garlic, olive oil, salt, and pepper till paste like. 
3. Rub over chicken thigh and marinate for at least 2 hours.
4. In an oven ready skillet or pan, render bacon till crisp. 
5. Add in olive oil and heat accordingly.
6. Pan-fry marinated chicken till brown on both sides. Remove and set aside.
7. Sauté mushrooms till brown. Remove and set aside.
8. Add in ground oregano and toast till aroma develops. 
9. Pour in Mass Wine and Balsamic Vinegar. Deglaze pan till all frying residue are removed.
10. Place chicken and mushroom back in pan and reduce sauce till thick over low heat. 
11. Sprinkle mozzarella and parmesan cheese together with parsley and pre-cooked bacon.
12. Place in oven and bake till cheese is melted and golden crust has formed. 
13. Served immediately with Pasta or Bread.

Yield: 4-6

Recipe Picture Courtesy of: http://img.recipezaar.com/img/recipes/17/10/61//large/pic5zUeqt.jpg

KUNG HEI FAT CHOI... Celebrating Prosperity

Here is a recipe that "Nanay" use to make whenever there is a special Chinese Occasion. At one point it became part of our regular house menu. But this "fiesta" dish is one of the well-loved recipes friends and relatives look forward to see in our table.

Here is my take on Nanay's classic PATA TIM.

INGREDIENTS 

1.5 - 2 kg Whole Pork Pata (Front)
Oil for frying
½ cup Soy Sauce (Silver Swan)
2 tablespoon Vinegar
2 tablespoon sugar
1 whole Garlic, peeled and crushed
2 large Onions Sliced
1 cup Leeks, sliced
1 cup Spring Onion, Sliced
3-pcs Star Anise Flower (Sanque)
¼ cup Sesame Oil
2 tablespoon Whole Black Pepper
2-pcs Dried Laurel Leaf
1-pc Knorr Beef Cube
1 cup Sliced Shitake Mushrooms (Purchase dried. Soak in water for 2 hours before slicing)
¼ cup Cornstarch dissolved in 4 tablespoons of cold water.
¼ cup Brown Sugar
4-5 bunches Bok Choi, blanched over boiling water till wilted.


PROCEDURE

1. In a pan, fry Pork Pata over high heat until brown. Make sure to regulate fire to prevent oil from burning. 
2. Transfer meats in a deep casserole. Add in the rest of the ingredients EXCEPT cornstarch, sugar and Bok Choi. 
3. Add water just enough to cover the meats. Place over high heat and bring to a boil. 
4. Allow 1 minute boiling and reduce heat to a simmer. 
5. Continue cooking till the meats are melting tender. 
6. Carefully remove Pork Leg from casserole and place over a bed of blanched Bok Choi. Note that at this point the pork meat is very tender, you would need to carefully handle it in order for the flesh not to separate from the bones. 
7. On a separate casserole, strain the boiling liquid and simmer over low heat. 
8. Add in sugar and continue for another 5 minutes. Note that you can adjust the sweetness depending on your desired taste. 
9. Add in Cornstarch mixture and continue simmering until thick. 
10. Pour sauce over Pork Pata and served immediately.

Yield: 12 - 15

CHICKEN PASTEL... A Family Classic

Every time there is a special occasion at home like a town fiesta or Nanay's Birthday or maybe an anniversary, one of the special dishes being prepared is the Chicken Pastel. 

Our family has several variations. One would have "lengua" and my version would be baked with a crust. Here is the mother recipe of our Family Version of PASTEL DE POLLO...

INGREDIENTS: 

4 T Butter
1 C Chopped Bacon
6 cloves Garlic, minced
1 whole Large White Onion, minced
½ C Celery, minced
¼ C Roasted Red Bell Peppers, minced
½ C Chorizo de Bilbao, sliced
¼ C Liver Spread
2 kg Chicken Thigh Fillet, cubes
1½ C White Wine
1 C Frankfurters, sliced
½ C Water Chestnuts, quartered
1 C Button Mushrooms, sliced
1 C Carrots, diced
½ C Frozen Green Peas
2 C All-Purpose Cream
2-3 doz. Hard-boiled Quail Eggs, peeled
2 t Ground Oregano
Salt and Pepper
Chopped Parsley 

PROCEDURE: 

1. In a pan, melt butter and render bacon till all fats are extracted. 
2. Sauté garlic till lightly brown. 
3. Add in onions, celery, and bell pepper. Caramelize. 
4. Pour in chorizo. 
5. Add liver spread and sauté till slightly toasted. 
6. Place in chicken and mix till everything is well incorporated 
7. Add in white wine. 
8. Deglaze and simmer over low heat till chicken becomes opaque. 
9. Add in frankfurters, water chestnuts, button mushroom, carrots, and green peas. Simmer until all meats are tender.
10. Pour in cream and continue simmering till thick. 
11. Add in quail eggs, and season with oregano, salt, and pepper. 
12. Served immediately sprinkled with chopped parsley. 

Yield: 20 – 25

FRITTATA... Eggs Version 2.0

Something different for breakfast I would like to share to all of you guys... ENJOY!!!

INGREDIENTS:

2 T Olive Oil
½ C Chorizo (Bilbao/Pamplona), strips
2 cloves Garlic, minced
1 medium White Onion, chopped
¼ C Celery, chopped
¼ C Roasted Red Bell Peppers, strips
¼ C White Wine
6 Eggs
¼ C Fresh Milk
¼ C Grated Manchego or Parmesan Cheese
1 t Kosher Salt
1 t Ground Black Pepper
¼ t Ground Oregano
4 Tomatoes, quartered
Chopped Parsley

PROCEDURES:

1. Preheat oven to 350 degrees F.
2. Heat oil in a skillet and render chorizo over medium heat.
3. Add in garlic and sauté until lightly brown.
4. Place in Onions and Celery and continue sautéing until caramelized.
5. Add in bell peppers and continue cooking until mixture starts to be slightly toasted.
6. Pour in wine and deglaze crust formed in the bottom of pan until everything is well incorporated. 
7. Place on low heat and reduce liquid till dry. 
8. On a separate bowl, beat 6 eggs with fresh milk and grated cheese.
9. Add in salt, pepper and oregano. 
10. Pour egg mixture on skillet and stir until mixture is well distributed on pan. 
11. Place over low heat and continue cooking till edges becomes firm. 
12. Arrange quartered tomatoes on top and place skillet in oven.
13. Bake for about 20 minutes or until the eggs has firmed up completely. 
14. Remove from oven and top with chopped parsley. 
15. Cut into wedges and serve preferably with butter on the side.

Yield: 8-10

POT ROAST... Something classy yet easy

I remember one time we had steak for dinner. The house was just covered with smoke and the meats was not that tender. For me to achieve such I would need to buy an expensive cut which, to my practical point of view is not necessary specially if you just want to eat a slice of good beef. I then came up with an alternative that is almost, if not, the same as the prime cut roast.... Some say it is even better.

Here is my POT ROAST RECIPE which we had last Christmas Lunch... 

INGREDIENTS:

1 – 1.5 kg Whole Beef Brisket
4 cloves Garlic
1 T Black Peppercorn
1 T Fresh Rosemary
1 T Salt
1 T Olive Oil
1 T Dijon Mustard
1 T Worcestershire Sauce
¼ C Red Wine
½ C Cooking Oil
1 C White Onions, Minced
1 C Carrots, Minced
1 C Celery, Minced
2 C White Wine
2 T Soy Sauce
1 T Black Peppercorn
2 Laurel Leaves
1 - 2 C Water
2 T Butter
2 T Flour
Sal t and Pepper


PROCEDURE:

1. Pat dry beef and set aside.
2. Using a Mortar and Pestle, crush garlic till paste like.
3. Add in peppercorn, rosemary and salt and continue crushing.
4. Add oil, mustard and Worcestershire and mix till all ingredients are incorporated. 
5. Rub the mixture over the beef till well coated. 
6. Inject Red Wine equally on all sides of the meat.
7. Wrap with cling plastic and marinate overnight.
8. On a skillet, heat oil till sizzling hot.
9. Sear beef over high heat till all sides are brown.
10. Place beef in a roasting or stewing pot. 
11. Using the same skillet, caramelize onions, carrots, and celery. 
12. Place in pot together with beef.
13. Add in white wine on the emptied skillet and de-glaze until nothing sticks to the bottom of the pan. 
14. Pour in de-glazed liquid over meat in stewing pot. 
15. Add in soy sauce, peppercorn, laurel leaves and water. 
16. Bring to a boil.
17. Lower heat and slow to slow simmer till beef is melting tender.
18. Remove from pot and allow it to rest for 10 – 20 minutes before slicing. 

Yield: 10 - 15

To accompany this dish, here are some sides you may wanna try...


GRAVY

Create a Roux by melting Butter in a saucepan and adding flour stirring constantly until nutty aroma develops or mixture becomes slightly brown. Strain stewing liquid from pot and whisk until desired thickness is achieved. Season gravy with salt and pepper.

Pour gravy on sliced meats or serve on the side.


SOUR POTATOES

1 kg Potatoes, peeled

1 clove Garlic, crushed
1 stick Butter, cubed
¼ C Sour Cream
¼ C All-Purpose Cream
¼ C Chives, minced
Salt and Pepper

In a pot, place in potatoes and garlic. Cover with tap water and place over high heat. Bring to a boil. Lover heat and continue boiling till potatoes are tender. Remove from heat and add butter. Mash potatoes until smooth and butter has completely melted. Add in creams and chive. Mix until potatoes are creamy. Adjust flavor with salt and season with pepper.



SIDE NICOISE

Prepare in advance the following and chill for 2-3 hours:

Romaine Lettuce
Lola Rossa Lettuce
½ C Black Olives, sliced
4 Tomatoes, sliced
15 – 20 pcs. French Beans, blanched
1 whole White Onion, sliced into rings
4 Hard Boiled Eggs

In a bowl, whisk all together 1 T Dijon Mustard, 1 T Honey, ¼ C Balsamic Vinegar, ½ C Olive Oil, a pinch of salt and pepper. Place in chilled assorted lettuce toss until dressing has fully coated all leaves. On top, arrange in Black Olives, Tomatoes, French Beans, White Onion Rings, and slices of Hard Boiled Eggs. Sprinkle with Croutons and Parmesan Cheese and served immediately.

Now who says eating roast is difficult? ENJOY your BEEF!!! 

WALDORF... The Salad Experience

I remember during the early days of Robinson's Galleria in Ortigas (circa 1990), a Salad and Fresh Juice Bar was erected in the middle of the food court. This was the time when we can have a sip of chilled mixed fruit and vegetable juices in the food court of a mall. Not to forget the array and variety of salads they serve. You can choose a salad duet or trio or have one kind just for yourself.

In this bar was the first time I encountered the Waldorf Salad. It was simple but tasty. It has Apples, Walnuts, Celery and just Mayonnaise. It was something new for us to try specially my mom. The other salads served are just the common varieties of Potato, Fruit or Macaroni.

Here started my Mom's curiosity on how this salad was made. So we did experiment and came up with several improvements of the recipe. At first we though the salad was given its name due to it having Walnuts as part of its ingredient. So came the "Wal" in the word Wal-dorf. How about the "Dorf"? Did some researches and hilariously I found out we were wrong...

The Waldorf Salad, originated in the Waldorf-Astoria Hotel in Park Avenue in New York. This was created between 1893 and 1896 - same year when the Peach Melba was created in The Savoy Hotel in London. Oscar Tschirky, the Maitre d'Hotel during that time, got some apples, cucumber slices, walnuts and mayonnaise and created the infamous New York Salad. 

As the years passed by, many versions of this American Classic came about. Some added Chicken and Turkey Meat. Others placed in Grapes and used other varieties of apples. But the secret is still in the dressing. 

I took some risks and tried to improve this centuries-old salad. Below is my version of the said classic:

INGREDIENTS:

¾ C Mayonnaise
¼ C All-Purpose Cream
2 T Honey
1 T Grated Parmesan Cheese
¼ t Salt
¼ t Ground Pepper
¼ t Ground Nutmeg
Zest of 1 Lemon
Juice of Half a Lemon
1 C Fuji Apples, cored and diced
1 C Granny Smith Apples, cored and diced
1 C Chicken Breast Fillet, boiled and diced
1 C Seedless Grapes, washed and cut into halves
½ C Walnuts, slightly roasted
½ C Celery, peeled and sliced
Chopped Parsley


PROCEDURES:

1. In a bowl, place mayonnaise, cream, honey and Parmesan Cheese. 
2. Mix lightly till well blended. 
3. Add in salt, pepper, and nutmeg. Continue mixing till all spices are equally distributed in mixture. 
4. Place in lemon zest and lemon juice. Mix and set aside in chiller. 
5. On a separate bowl, place in remainder of ingredients. Chill for an hour. 
6. Fold in dressing into apple mixture until well coated. Chill for another hour. 
7. Serve on a lettuce cup and top with chopped parsley. 

Try it and I know you will love this simple concoction of apples and walnuts. And as you take a bite, imagine yourself 100 years back in the streets or foyer of one of the world's famous hotel in the world's busiest city. 

Reference: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Waldorf_salad